Zermatt
Travel, through a family lens: where chic alpine culture, stunning mountain views, and cozy lodges blend luxury with classic Swiss charm.
Family Travel Journal
We set off to Zermatt as a family for our very first ever ski trip. Our journey unfolded from London to Zurich, and then into the mountains on the Glacier Express. The ride was long but comfortable, and the views were magical, especially after a little white lie that we were heading to Elsa’s hometown in Frozen. The arrival up to Cervo in a tuk tuk was equally magical. The doors opened to festive music and guests in the best apres ski attire, hot toddies and cocoa in hand, while Matterhorn stood tall glowing against the star-filled night sky.
The days that followed were filled with pure joy for the kids: learning to ski, endless Matterhorn photos, snow play, and Swiss fondue. The snow was light, dry, and forgiving - the kind that makes learning to ski feel a lot less intimidating. Each afternoon ended the same way, unwinding in the hotel’s onsen, where the kids even tried the ice baths!
Since Zermatt, it has been hard to replicate that same feeling. It set a high bar but we’re grateful it did. The memories, the small moments, and the many firsts from this trip continue to stand out, and Zermatt will always be where skiing began for us.
-Mimi, Cofounder
Quick insights before you dive into planning…
Perfect for: Families drawn to dramatic alpine scenery and outdoor adventure balanced with a refined mountain atmosphere.
Ages: 2+. Older kids will have more structured activities, but even toddlers are captivated by the trains and dramatic landscapes. Also, the compact, car-free village makes it especially manageable with young kids.
When to Visit: Winter break for a classic European ski experience with stunning winter landscapes and lively après-ski energy. Summer is equally scenic and ideal for hiking and mountain excursions, though not covered in this guide.
Trip Length: At least 4 nights. Zermatt takes some effort to reach, and you’ll want enough time to settle in and enjoy the alpine pace.
Combine with: Geneva, Zurich, or another major Western European hub, as a stopover is typically part of the journey.
Destination Fit
At a glance
Zermatt sits beneath the Matterhorn in southern Switzerland, and that alone sets the tone for this charming alpine village. Dramatic mountain scenery meets a polished, upscale culture, with cozy restaurants, stylish boutiques, and a refined take on classic European après-ski. Visitors usually arrive by train from Geneva or Zurich, connecting in Visp before continuing on the Matterhorn Gotthard Railway for the final scenic stretch.
Zermatt strikes the perfect balance of chic but approachable, making it ideal for families. From the moment you arrive, the village feels warm, welcoming, and incredibly accommodating to kids, with a relaxed pace that makes traveling as a family feel easy. The village is small and walkable, with world-class skiing and iconic alpine scenery all easily accessible. The train ride is a highlight in itself, and the car-free village makes it simple and safe for kids to move around. Gondolas, funiculars, and mountain trams add to the sense of adventure, whether you’re skiing, hiking, or simply taking in the views. Days are filled with outdoor activities, while evenings are perfect for strolls through town, browsing shops, and soaking up the cozy alpine atmosphere. With its compact size, friendly vibe, and variety of experiences, families can quickly settle in and feel right at home.
Our Favorite Things
Traveled, loved, and chosen for you through our family lens.
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Zermatt offers a range of accommodations, from cozy alpine lodges to upscale resorts with spas and wellness facilities. Our favorites:
CERVO Mountain Resort – true ski-in/ski-out resort with a fun outdoor après-ski scene that still works well for kids, plus chic rooms including family-friendly layouts with bunk beds. We loved the liveliness and convenience when staying here with our family.
SCHLOSS Hotel Zermatt - a great option for families who want more space and a focus on wellness. It’s close to the train station and town, has a great spa and fitness area, and offers comfortable suites that work well for longer stays or travel with kids.
Matterhorn Lodge - cozy, welcoming, and very family-friendly, with spacious apartment-style rooms that make it easy to spread out and feel at home.
The Omnia - widely regarded as one of the top hotels in Zermatt. The design is stunning, the views are incredible, and the spa is a real treat after ski days. Quieter and more refined than CERVO, it’s still a great fit for families, especially those with older kids, who want calm, upscale comfort.
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Zermatt is known for its cozy alpine cuisine, where you’ll find hearty Swiss classics like fondue and raclette, alongside a range of international and mountain-inspired dining options.
Bergrestaurant Blatten- a must-visit while in Zermatt. We stumbled across this hut on a hike and knew we had to come back. It’s reachable by skis or a 15-minute walk down from the Furi Gondola stop. Tip: the puff pastry mushroom soup was the unanimous favorite at our table.
saycheese! - classic Swiss fondue served in a modern setting. Our kids loved the experience, and the staff were very accommodating to our toddler.
Chez Vrony - think upscale burgers and unique goat cheese ravioli with incredible views. This was another Zermatt favorite.
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Zermatt is packed with activities for all ages. After visiting with our families and kids ranging from ages 1 to 8, these are the winter experiences we enjoyed most:
Skiing - easy access from town to a great mountain with amazing views of the Matterhorn and a huge range of terrain for different skill levels. You can catch gondolas right from town or stay in a ski-in/ski-out hotel for easy access. And if you’re confident on skis, it’s even possible to ski over to Italy for an Italian lunch before returning.
Tobogganing - head up on the Gornergrat railway to Rotenboden, then rent a toboggan and enjoy a thrilling or leisurely ride (your choice!) down to Riffelberg with incredible views of the Matterhorn the whole way. This was super fun, even with a toddler in tow.
Hiking - take the Matterhorn Express or Sunnegga funicular up toward Blauherd to explore numerous hiking paths that lead back down, including gentle routes and scenic trails with Matterhorn views. Build in time for lunch at a hut along the way.
Onsen - At CERVO Mountain Resort, the Ātman Mountain Spa features a Japanese-inspired onsen among its wellness offerings. Perched above Zermatt with spectacular Matterhorn views, the onsen and thermal bathing spaces are designed for deep relaxation after a day of alpine activity.
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Zermatt may be small, but there’s a good mix of upscale Swiss brands, charming artisanal stores, and classic souvenir shops. A few we’d recommend:
Haute Horlogerie Schindler – Boutique Patek Philippe - one of those only-in-Switzerland moments, where you can immerse yourself in the heritage and prestige of Swiss watchmaking.
Lindt Chocolate Shop - a must for chocolate lovers; if you didn’t make it to the HQ in Zurich, this is a great chance to sample and take home Swiss chocolate.
Matterland Souvenirs - family-run, long-established shop with high-quality local souvenirs, right on Zermatt’s Bahnhofstrasse.
There's so much more to explore. Reach out for a comprehensive list of our favorite spots (including more hidden gems we discovered) or book a bespoke full-trip planner.
Tips
Getting there
Take the train from Zurich (about 3 hours) or Geneva (around 4 hours) to Zermatt, changing in Visp to the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn, a narrow-gauge mountain train that climbs into Zermatt and offers scenic views along the way. We recommend traveling during the day, as the journey itself is part of the experience. An alternative and even more scenic option is to find a connection to the famous Glacier Express through Chur or St. Moritz. The journey takes significantly longer, at about 8 hours, but the views are incredible and a highlight for our family.
Getting around
From the moment you arrive, Zermatt is easy to navigate on foot, often starting with the walk from the train station to your hotel. Most attractions, activities, and restaurants are clustered within the village, making walking both convenient and scenic. A few spots may require a slightly longer stroll, but taxis are readily available if little legs need a break. Just note that taxis do tend to be on the pricey side.
How Zermatt Compares
Compared to other ski destinations in Switzerland, we loved how Zermatt balances being chic but still approachable. The village is small, charming, walkable, and skiing is world-class and iconic without the flashiness of St. Moritz. We also found it more family-friendly than Davos and more polished than Grindelwald.
Beyond Switzerland, compared to destinations like the Dolomites (check out our guide here), the Zermatt – Matterhorn region is easy to reach and get around by train, while visiting the Dolomites requires a car. Zermatt is also more contained, with most activities and attractions within walking distance. All this convenience and the more upscale atmosphere come at a price, as Zermatt tends to be significantly more expensive.
Currency & Costs
Zermatt uses Swiss francs (CHF), not euros. The village is known for being expensive, especially hotels and restaurants, so plan ahead and budget accordingly. The scenery and experience are absolutely worth it, though costs can add up quickly. Lift tickets, however, are generally still cheaper than at most U.S. ski resorts.
Book ahead
Zermatt is a very popular destination, so it’s worth considering booking accommodations up to a year in advance (not uncommon for European ski destinations). While there are many excellent hotels, the village is relatively small, and family rooms can be especially limited. The same goes for restaurants and ski gear rentals. Reservations are a must and should be booked 1-3 months in advance for peace of mind.
Wolli Cards for the kids
If you’re skiing at least two days in Zermatt, get your kids (under 9) a Wolli Card. It gives kids free access to all lifts, including many of the scenic railways and local transport that would normally require a separate ticket, plus a welcome kit and discounts at some family attractions. Adults just need to purchase a lift pass for at least two days for the card to be issued.
Get a ski guide
The Zermatt area is large and has lots of varied terrain, so hiring a local ski guide can make navigating the mountains easier, especially for families or first-time visitors. Guides can help you find the best runs, avoid crowded lifts, and introduce you to hidden spots with great views. Even if you’re experienced, a guide is a great way to make the most of your time on the slopes and get oriented quickly.
Apres Ski
Zermatt’s après-ski is lively but refined, with cozy bars and lodges offering everything from warm drinks to live music. Families and kids are usually welcomed, particularly in hotels and many of the more relaxed spots in town. Even if you’re not skiing, strolling through the village in the late afternoon or early evening lets you soak up the social energy and alpine charm.
Trusted Family Voices…
Family Travel Journal
Zermatt was one of the first places we traveled to as a family of three, when our daughter was about a year and a half. We paired it with a trip to Paris, which was familiar for us, while Zermatt felt new and interesting. Traveling with a toddler isn’t always easy, but Zermatt’s charm and size made it exactly the kind of place we were hoping for. There was so much to do right from the village that we could take our time and still feel like we were really experiencing it. Getting there was part of the fun. Our daughter loved the train ride, watching the scenery go by and taking in the novelty of moving through stations. Once we arrived, the car-free village made it easy to get around, whether we were pushing a stroller or letting her toddle along beside us.
Beyond just how beautiful Zermatt is, the best thing about it is how many ways there are to explore the mountains straight from town. One of our favorite days was taking the train up to Gornergrat ridge and sledding down with our toddler, the Matterhorn looming above us the whole way. It was magical and unlike anything we’d done before. We also kept things flexible, and one day we all rode the gondola together: my husband continued to the top to ski, while we got off midway and hiked back down toward the village at a slower pace, taking in the views along the way. At the time, one of our daughter’s biggest joys was mealtime, where she happily filled up on fondue, bread, and chocolate. Zermatt taught us that travel changes with a child, but discovering new places together can still be fun, memorable, and something we really look forward to.
-Annie, Cofounder
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